boating – Riveted

Finally! Tiny Deer!

Laura Domela — Sun, 11 Dec 2016 01:03:17 +0000

We’re back at Jones Island tonight (three Nordic Tugs!): Dan & Eileen on Fortunate (a 32′), and Sam, Anna, David, and Mark on Safe Harbour (Sam’s 37′).

Airship, with rainbow:

We are moored on the north side of Jones, since the wind today and tonight will be SE. This afternoon we dinghied to shore and did a little hike across to the south side.

Not too long after we started our hike, we (FINALLY) saw one of the famous tiny deer of Jones Island! Everyone talks about them, but we’ve never managed to spot any when we’re here…until now!

It was not afraid of us at all (because, no predators on the island). We stood and chatted with it for a while and then moved on.

On the south shore, we saw a single camper over at a campfire, presumably staying in one of the little camping shelters. This is his rowboat (rowboat!!), and it was not looking all that…robust (and had quite a lot of water in it).

It’s a little rough out there and we wondered where he’d come from (maybe Orcas Island?). Hope he keeps warm tonight in that little shelter!

Sam took this great photo of us all with the drone earlier:

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Tomorrow we’ll return briefly to Friday Harbor to drop off David and Mark, do some groceries (maybe check out the recommended sushi spot for lunch), and then probably head for another TBA anchorage.

Tonight everyone’s meeting for and cooking dinner (all eight of us!) over on Safe Harbour. Should be festive!

Sucia Island to Jones Island to San Juan Island

Laura Domela — Thu, 08 Dec 2016 21:01:27 +0000

Sam took that photo of Airship, above, as we were on our way from Sucia Island and headed for Jones Island yesterday. The wind was picking up and we figured it would be best to get inside the islands with a little more protection so we didn’t have to cross over in worse conditions. We left with the wind and current at our backs, and it wasn’t too bad…choppy and maybe 4ft following seas.

We moored at the south side of Jones Island last night, and got some more work done before dinner. It’s still quite cold out (30 degrees Fahrenheit when I took this photo just before sunrise this morning), and there’s snow in the forecast for this afternoon, but we’ll see:

After breakfast on Sam’s boat, we cruised over to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island, where we are now. We’ll stay here while the wind does its thing (NE wind 25 to 35 kt. Wind waves 4 to 6 ft.). We’re recording another Slowboat webcast today (an overview of the Inside Passage), and we’ll probably go into town for dinner tonight…then more webcast work tomorrow. Excited to get these finished and posted for you guys to check out!

Roche Harbor to Fossil Bay

Laura Domela — Mon, 05 Dec 2016 21:19:37 +0000

We left Anacortes on Sunday morning a little after 9am. The plan was to meet up with Sam over in Roche Harbor and then walk up to the San Juan Island Distillery (open Saturdays and Sundays from 1pm to 4pm) to pick up some more of the delicious shrubs I bought at the Christmas market in Friday Harbor when we were there for Thanksgiving — Kari’s Island Elixers. I bought a Sweet Summer Tomato shrub and a Spicy Rhubarb squash. They’re so great to mix into fizzy water for a non-alcoholic cocktail, or to add to cocktails…and as soon as I tried it at home I wished I’d gotten more. You can’t order them online (but you can order her bitters online), but apparently she sells some shrubs/squashes at the distillery…so anyway…where were we? Oh yeah, leaving Anacortes:

It was a little windy out, but not bad at all. We anchored over near Henry Island, near where Sam was docked at the Seattle Yacht Club outstation, and then we all dinghied into Roche Harbor for a walk up to the distillery.

Awwwwwwww. So sad. We’re here, but they’re not.

We’ll be back in Friday Harbor this weekend…maybe I’ll just give Kari a call and see how I can get us more of the delicious elixirs. We out to be able to work something out…it’s not a huge island.

Back in the marina we stopped to visit with some friends of Sam’s and they invited us all to stay for drinks and dinner aboard their 48′ Tollycraft. It was a super fun evening with great folks!

The docks were frosty and a bit slippery as we walked back to Sam’s dinghy. Hotel de Haro reflection under the dock:

The dinghy ride back to Airship was cold but short.

On Monday morning we headed for Sucia Island (photo taken from Airship, Safe Harbour up ahead):

The wind was supposed to pick up (gale warnings and such) so we thought we could hunker down and get some work done in Fossil Bay for a day or two.

Snow on Mount Constitution, Orcas Island:

At the dock in Fossil Bay:

We got some work done and then before it got dark we went for a hike out to Fox Cove:

Snow on Orcas Island:

Back at the dock…we’re still the only boats here! Winter boating is awesome!

We’re Back!

Laura Domela — Wed, 28 Sep 2016 05:09:44 +0000

We left our beautiful anchorage at Cabbage and Tumbo Islands yesterday morning (after a very rolly, sleepless night…oh well, we can sleep later) and headed for Anacortes. It was foggy a lot of the time, but on and off. Here’s Orcas Island sticking up out of the fog bank, during one of the “off” times:

Sun. Trees. Fog. Water.

Returning home after months of cruising to incredible locations is always bittersweet. Here are some numbers for you!

This summer we were on board for 150 days/nights, we cruised 3700.3 nautical miles, and we spent 625.46 hours underway.
Last summer, we were on board for 129 days/night, we cruised 3131 nautical miles, and we spent 527 hours underway.
Last night was Night #480 spent aboard since we purchased Airship on the 23rd of September 2014. That’s 480 days out of 735 days. That’s 65% of our time spent on Airship.

We’re back in Anacortes now, doing boat stuff. Cleaning the boat. Scheduling a haul out and new bottom paint and zincs for the boat. Looking at bigger boats…that kind of stuff.

Lund | BC

Laura Domela — Sun, 25 Sep 2016 03:54:43 +0000

Melanie Cove was foggy and rainy in the morning yesterday when we woke up. We didn’t leave until after noon…and since it was later in the day, we decided to stop in Lund and cross the strait on Saturday when the wind was supposed to be light. Plus, we like Lund!

There was room at the end of B dock at the Lund Small Craft Harbour. We settled in, did some work, and then two guys from a nearby sailboat (called “Pony”…its dinghy is called “Dog”) started chatting with Kevin about boats and Lund and stuff. Our default plan had been to walk over to The Boardwalk Restaurant for dinner, but these guys highly recommended a restaurant called Laughing Oyster, about a 15 minute cab ride away. They said we just go up and get the number for Martin’s Taxi off the bulletin board and he’d take us over there. Martin’s Taxi is a 1947 Hudson that was apparently painted up like a taxi for some Hollywood movie, and then he somehow got it, and now he just “gives people rides” in exchange for a donation to the charity his wife volunteers for (the SPCA, I believe).

We made a reservation for 7pm at Laughing Oyster, and then at about 6pm we called Martin, but it turns out Martin was unavailable (apparently very rare). Awwwwww. I called to tell the restaurant and they said “Oh no problem. Martin’s actually having dinner here tonight. Louisa can come pick you up.” (So awesome.)

Here’s the view from our table. That’s the patio seating there, and down from that is the public dock:

Upon arrival, we learned that it was “Beggar’s Banquet” night (or something like that). There was a buffet, and music…the musicians played for their dinner and tips (I think). It was fantastic. The place was totally full (we got the last table), the food was delicious, and the music was great. What a treat! Oh and guess who was sitting at the table just over from us? Martin and his wife…celebrating their 55th anniversary. I’d say that’s a good reason not to be driving the taxi!

It was a lovely night.

This is David Bowes on the left (also the executive chef at Laughing Oyster) and Sam Murrie (I think that’s how his last name was spelled) on the right. They were both very good and we thoroughly enjoyed the evening.

In the morning we headed up to the harbour office to pay our moorage (about 23 bucks Canadian) and then walked over to Nancy’s Bakery to pick up one of their famous blackberry cinnamon rolls. (This sugar thing is going to have to stop soon.)

Actually, as soon as we went inside I decided I might rather have something savory, and save my cinnamon roll for a later snack, so we both had breakfast and then took a cinnamon roll to go for later. I ordered an omelet with avocado, spinach, and lox:

Kevin had a huevos rancheros with black beans and chorizo:

Both were delicious (and pretty!)

Back down at the harbour…Giderdun II loading a truck carrying lumber:

We decided to go all the way to Nanaimo today…60 nautical miles or so. We figured we had the time and the strait was supposed to be fairly calm (which it was, until it wasn’t):

The wind picked up a bit this afternoon. We had probably 20 knot gusts for a bit and maybe 3ft moderate chop. A wet ride, but not too bad really (especially compared to last year on the same stretch).

We pulled into Nanaimo Harbour and anchored just off of Newcastle Island, then dinghied into the Dinghy Dock Pub for dinner and a pint. Tomorrow I think we’ll aim for Cabbage Island, and then after that…perhaps back to Anacortes!

Melanie Cove | Desolation Sound | BC

Laura Domela — Thu, 22 Sep 2016 20:13:20 +0000

After our stop at Mitlenatch Island yesterday, we continued on to Melanie Cove, inside of Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park.

There are three areas to anchor in Desolation Sound Marine Park: Prideaux Haven, Melanie Cove, and Laura Cove. There were 4 or 5 boats in Prideaux Haven, and 5 boats in Melanie Cove when we arrived last night (which seems a like a lot for end of September). We anchored in about 35 feet with plenty of room and no need to stern tie. (A stern tie is a line attached to something on shore like a tree or boulder or a nice chain like the one pictured below, that acts as a second anchor and limits the swing of your boat. It’s common practice in tighter, more popular anchorages.) Over on the opposite side of the cove there are some really nice stern tie chains attached to the rock:

After we got settled, I made us a quick dinner (gnocchi with sauteed mushrooms and the last of the truffled pesto sauce, with a spinach salad). We met Norm and Jane from a super cute blue-hulled Nordic Tug called Toot Sweet (they were stern tied on the opposite side of the cove and came by to say hi).

This morning we woke up to this view:

I suggested we have a quick coffee and then go kayaking before breakfast and while it was so calm and beautiful out, which turned out to be a very good good call!

That’s a little Ranger Tug anchored over in the shallow area of Laura Cove, in the middle of this next shot:

This is one of the most spectacular places to kayak, especially in this weather. Every time we stopped paddling it was absolutely silent, save for a few bird sounds or the burble of a nearby waterfall. We paddled over to Laura Cove and around a bunch of little islands and inlets. The tide was high, so all the green areas on the chart were easily passable by kayak. Here’s our track, starting and finishing at Airship in Melanie Cove (just over 3 miles total):

There’s a trailhead at the head of Melanie Cove that I think we’ll explore after we get some more work done. I made us a sort of huevos rancheros for brunch this morning (crunchy chipotle tostada on the bottom, black beans, grated cheese, over easy egg, homemade salsa, with a couple slices of avocado on top) and it was yum! Now we’re just working here on Airship. There’s only one other boat in the cove with us now and it’s VERY quiet. The wind is supposed to pick up this afternoon but calm again by tomorrow afternoon, and the weekend looks like a great time to make our way down the Strait of Georgia (WITHOUT the conditions we had last year for this part of our trip).

Mitlenatch Island | BC

Laura Domela — Thu, 22 Sep 2016 02:28:53 +0000

We left our anchorage at Rebecca Spit around noon and headed for Melanie Cove in Prideaux Haven (Desolation Sound). It’s a little out of our way (and NORTH!) but hard to pass by when the weather is this great.

A little bit into our cruise, we opted to make a detour and stop at Mitlenatch Island. Mitlenatch Island Nature Provincial Park is home to the largest seabird colony in the Strait of Georgia. The island is a nature reserve and an important nesting colony for Glaucous-winged Gulls, Pelagic Cormorants, Pigeon Guillemots, Black Oystercatchers and many other species of birds. Marine life around the island includes river otters and harbour seals throughout the year, and Steller’s and California sea lions from late fall through to summer. [source]

Mitlenatch is here, in the middle of the map image (the small green island). Campbell River on Vancouver Island is over on the left side. Here’s a link to the actual Google map, if you want to zoom and stuff.

Steller sea lions, harbour seals, and a cormorant on our way into the cove:

The conditions were calm so we easily snuck in and anchored in the shallow cove (in about 15 feet) and then went ashore to explore.

The “Volunteer’s Cabin” (there was no one there right now, but I believe there’s someone here most of the summer):

There are all sorts of little collections of shells and bones around the cabin, as well as a little stack of pamphlets about the BC parks and wildlife. We looked around and then headed down the trail.

On the other side of the island there was a group of harbour seals hanging out in the sun at the water’s edge. We were pretty far away (and really quiet) but I think they still figured out we were there and after a couple minutes, some of them decided to get in the water.

On our way back across we went to check out the Gull Blind:

All we saw was one lone gull and a couple cormorants, but I’m guessing during the spring and early summer there are a lot of cool nesting gulls and baby birds to watch.

We did manage to spot and snap a photo of a neat Black Oystercatcher though:

After hiking all of the trails (except the one that went to the outhouse) we headed back to Airship.

The water here is so clear!

We had some lunch and then continued on toward Melanie Cove. This was a great stop, and highly recommended on a calm day.

Rebecca Spit | BC

Laura Domela — Wed, 21 Sep 2016 16:46:28 +0000

The moon came up last night behind the spit and I managed to get a couple of decent photos of it. Here’s my favorite:

Sun coming through the trees over on the spit this morning:

We had some coffee and then dinghied to shore to do some hiking out on Rebecca Spit. Such a pretty place!

More sea asparagus:

We’re back on Airship doing some work now. We have good strong internet here so we’re taking advantage of that. I just scheduled a haul out for the beginning of October back in Anacortes (hull cleaning, bottom paint, and some new zincs) … I’m happy I got that on the calendar…the grungy waterline is making me a little crazy. Kevin makes fun of me because every time we are in the dinghy and I can see how dirty the hull is, I whine about it. I like a clean boat…what can I say?

Octopus Islands to Rebecca Spit | BC

Laura Domela — Wed, 21 Sep 2016 02:26:24 +0000

Last night just as we were eating dinner, guess who pulled into the cove where we were anchored? Thomas, Lars, and Urban…on Dawnbreaker! After dinner we had them over for some brownies and wine (and stories, and laughing, and planning the next anchorages….)

This morning after breakfast, Kevin took the drone up for some aerial photos, because look at this location!!

We took the dinghy out for a little exploration before we left. We beached it on Octopus Island and walked around a little.

Oops…someone lost an anchor:

I found a couple of large beds of sea asparagus on the beach on Octopus Island, so I harvested a couple of handfuls and will probably cook it up or put it in a salad. There are tons of recipes online for things to do with sea asparagus.

Both Airship and Dawnbreaker left around the same time…to hit Surge Narrows around slack this afternoon at 2pm. Slack was…slack. Uneventful in Surge Narrows…

Looking out into Sutil Channel:

Gorgeous anchorage at Rebecca Spit:

We dinghied over to the Heriot Bay Inn & Marina and then walked up to the market to restock on veggies and wine. If we didn’t feel so much like grilling back on the boat in this gorgeous weather, we’d have tried out the pub or restaurant at the Inn…

Back on Airship we sat on the top deck with a beer and some snacks and watch the light from the sunset over the spit. Not sure where we’ll go tomorrow yet, but here’s the view from right now:

There’s good internet here (and there has been since we left the Octopus Islands) so we’ve been working all along the way as well…it’s not just as interesting to write about work!

Octopus Islands | BC

Laura Domela — Tue, 20 Sep 2016 08:07:43 +0000

We’d heard and read about the Octopus Islands (and how great they are) but we hadn’t been there, so we put a quick stop to that on our way south!

It rained all night at Shoal Bay. We left the dock with cappuccinos in hand at 9am. Today was Okisollo Rapids day! We had about 20 miles to the rapids (at about 7 knots that’s about 3 hours) and we planned to be early for slack (which was at around 1:10pm). We were plenty early so we trolled for salmon a while in Discovery Passage before turning into Okisollo Passage. We saw a whole bunch of Pacific White-Sided Dolphins, and also a few Dall’s Porpoises that surfed our bow a bit. The white-sided dolphins have curved dorsal fins, while the porpoises have small, more triangular fins. We’ve had both surf our bow, and they can be easy to confuse for one another because their coloring is the same…the dorsal fin is the easiest way to tell the difference.

We had some current against us as we approached the lower rapids, but it was diminishing rapidly. We went through the lower rapids and noticed pretty much nothing in the way of swirls, boils, whirlpools, or anything else. Same thing at the upper rapids…it was so calm there wasn’t even anything to take a picture of….completely uneventful.

During maximum current, the Okisollo Rapids can have somewhere between a 5-8 foot standing wave/overfalls. If you want to see what I’m talking about, check out this video. (There are plenty more…feel free to Google.)

Soon after the non-rapid rapids, we turned into the Octopus Islands Marine Park. How beautiful! I’m so glad we finally decided to stop here. There are only two other boats in here: a sailboat that anchored way up at the head of Waiatt Bay, and a power boat anchored not too far from us (but definitely far enough). We’re in the northernmost tip, anchored in about 30 feet with plenty of swing room. I made us some lunch (a curry tortilla wrap filled with fresh crab, tomatoes, avocado, shredded lettuce, and a little garlic aioli and pepper…super yum) and then we went out exploring in the dinghy. (Crab pots are out!)

Tonight I think we’ll just grill up some halibut with some zucchini, and enjoy the quiet. It hasn’t rained since we got here, and there’s even some blue sky. Perhaps we’ll stay here tomorrow too! Our next planned stop is down at Rebecca Spit (beach, park, woods, trails) and Drew Harbour…on the east side of Quadra Island. There are two marinas there as well…the Heriot Bay Inn and Marina and the Taku Resort. There’s apparently a really good store (and even a liquor store)…sounds like a big city!

So We’ll be going through Surge Narrows between here and there, and I believe it’s another one that needs a slack transit. Lots of rapids in this area of BC!