Skip to content

Internet on the Road


Lots of people have questions about our on-the-road internet setup.  Here's the current state of affairs.  (Warning – this gets a little technical and messy. I'm an electronic engineer, so I like that stuff.)  There are some tips at the end for simplifying the setup to be easier to use and understand.

First, read our old blog post about getting connected

Our current setup all comes from  (great selection of stuff, excellent service – been buying from them for years)

Starting on the outside of the trailer, we have a couple of these antennas.

We had the
Airstream dealer mount them and run the wires into the trailer. We used 10'
wires like these

These wires are available in longer lengths
depending on your mounting location and so forth. 10' was plenty for us. These
cables have an "FME" connector (to connect to inside stuff) on one
end, and an "N" connector (like the outside antenna) on the other

In this situation, I recommend NOT getting the
"Ultra Low Loss" cables. You can't really tell from the pictures on
the site, but those cables are HUGE – about the diameter of a (small) garden
hose. I didn't want to be drilling those gigantic holes in the trailer and I
didn't want to be trying to work with that extremely-thick not-too-flexible
cable. The cables above are just "low loss" not "ultra low
loss". They work just fine.

Those antennas are great for several things:

  1. Boosting campground WiFi
  2. Boosting 3G service
  3. Boosting 4G/LTE service

They work over a broad frequency range so
they're good for all of those applications. However, you can't install any kind
of switch to let one antenna do all of those things, so you'll need to decide
if you want to run 1, 2, or 3 antennas (depending on what you want to boost) or
be swapping antenna leads around as you change modes on the road. I went for 2
antennas – one for WiFi and one for 3G/4G/LTE.

Inside the trailer, we have a PepWave
Surf-on-the-go WiFi router to create our secure, in-the-trailer WiFi network. This
lets all our devices (2 laptops, 2 iPads, 2 iPhones, Mac Mini, Xbox) connect to
the same, secure, private WiFi network all the time. We don't have to go around
changing all our devices every time we are near a different WiFi hotspot. All
our devices can use this to share one 3G/4G USB datacard. Ours is like this

The good things about this router are:

  1. It's small, reliable, and easy to set up.
  2. It supports WiFi as WAN – which means it
    can connect to campground WiFi and use that as the internet connection when it
    is available. This also provides a firewall that keeps us secure from other
    users on the campground WiFi.
  3. It supports an external WiFi antenna. This
    gives MUCH stronger signal on campground WiFi than we'd get on our laptops
    inside the metal trailer. In our tests this weekend, that translated into
    5x-10x faster speeds from campground WiFi and much better reliability.

Weaknesses are:

  1. It doesn't support the kind of protocol
    that would let you do file sharing between machines across the local WiFi
  2. It has only one USB port, so you can only
    have one 3G/4G card connected at a time. Some other models will connect 2 or 3
    devices at a time, and can load-share between them. (However, those other
    devices all have some other limitation that disqualified them for me – like no
    WiFi as WAN, or requiring 2 or 3 external antennas, or not supporting external
    antennas at all.)
  3. The user interface screens give pretty
    simple and primitive information. I'd like to see more about my connection –
    particularly whether I'm connected to 3G or LTE, for example.

In our setup, one of the external antennas is
connected to the antenna port on the PepWave. That requires an adapter to match
up the incoming antenna cable to the PepWave connector. 3G store will sell you
the right one depending on your setup. This means the PepWave is always using
the outdoor antenna for WiFi.

For data cards, we actually carry 3. Verizon
UML290 LTE/4G/3G, AT&T Sierra Wireless LTE/3G/4G, and Sprint… something. We
carry these because we want to have a shot at a good connection no matter where
we are. Having all three gives us a better chance, and also allows us to spread
our use out over multiple data plans so we don't go over our limit on just one
card. We work online every day from the road, so we use a LOT of data.

That being said, we are planning to drop the
Sprint card. We've been all over the US and the Sprint connection has always
been worse than the other two. More often than not, we can't get a decent
Sprint connection at all. Verizon is clearly the champ in our experience. We've
been all over the US except the Northeast (check our map) and Verizon beats
AT&T pretty consistently in terms of signal strength and availability. Sometimes,
though, it doesn't work at all and we're glad to have AT&T as a backup.

The datacard plugs into the PepWave (or 3G
store may sell you a USB extension cable that lets you put the datacard farther
from the PepWave router for better signal).

So, to recap where we are so far in our
discussion, we've got an external antenna connected to a PepWave router – which
boosts campground WiFi, and we have datacards we can plug into the PepWave router
for when we don't have campground WiFi.

Now, things get tricky, but we could also stop
here. The 3G/4G datacards will work just fine plugged into the PepWave.

But, we want more range and more speed. There
are several ways to get that and they're all a little ugly.

First, you could get another one of those
external antennas and the proper antenna adapter cable for your data card. Plug
the external antenna into your data card (which is plugged into the PepWave)
and you get stronger, better signal and a faster connection.

To take it another level, you can add booster
amplifiers. This part gets very very messy. Here's why:

First, you need to decide what you want to
boost. Sometimes you get LTE/4G service, sometimes you get 3G service. Sometimes
you get older-than-3G service (booooo). Different amplifiers are required for
LTE versus 3G and below. Only one amplifier can be connected to an external
antenna at a time. Only one can be connected to your 3G datacard at a time. So
– if you wanted to boost both 3G and LTE signals, you'll be swapping cables
around a lot – switching the external antenna cable between 3G and LTE amplifiers,
and switching the antenna cable on your datacard between amplifiers.

Making matters worse, most of the antenna
connectors on the datacards are tiny, clunky, and fragile. There's a special
note on the 3G store site warning how easy it is to break the connector on the
Verizon UML290 card. UGH. I'm careful.

Not only are different amplifiers required for
3G vs 4G/LTE, but different amplifiers are required for Verizon LTE and
AT&T LTE. Each amplifier is around $200. Knock yourself out… 🙂

For 3G (and also cell phone) boosting, there
is another option. Instead of connecting the amplifier to your datacard with a
cable, you can get a signal booster that uses a little indoor antenna that you
put near your data card (or cell phone) to boost the signal. These don't give
as much boost as direct connect, but you're also not futzing around with tiny,
fragile connectors on datacards.

Hopefully, they'll get this sorted out
eventually. For now, we have 3 amplifiers:

  1. An LTE amplifier for Verizon
  2. A 3G-and-below direct-connect amplifier that
    will work for Verizon or AT&T on 3G connections (but doesn't help on faster
    LTE connections), and 
  3. A 3G signal booster to use with our cell
    phones to help us get cell service when we're out in the boonies. The 3G signal
    booster is actually our old Wifi-in-Motion setup (which has its own little
    roof-mounted antenna) so altogether we have 3 antennas on the roof for
    3G/4G/LTE/WiFi/Cell phone boosting.

I have to first fire it up and find out what
kind of signal we're going to use:

  • Verizon LTE: Use the Verizon card connected to
    the LTE amplifier. Connect the external antenna to the LTE amplifier.
  • Verizon 3G: Use the Verizon card connected to
    the 3G amplifier. Connect the external antenna to the 3G amplifier
  • AT&T LTE: Use the AT&T card connected
    straight to the external antenna (since I don't have an AT&T LTE amplifier.
  • AT&T 3G: Use the AT&T card connected
    to the 3G amplifier. Connect the external antenna to the 3G amplifier.
  • Sprint (hah, pretty much never): Use the
    Sprint card and the 3G cell phone booster (old WiFi in Motion).
  • Phone calls: Use the 3G cell phone booster to
    extend range.

Advantages: With this setup, we get really
good speed, range, and reliability in a bunch of different places, we have the
ability to get maximum advantage from campground WiFi when it's available, and
we can spread our data usage across several plans.

Disadvantages: We have a spaghetti mess of
cables, amplifiers and boosters in our cabinet, and I'm constantly having to
juggle cables between antennas, amplifiers, and data cards to adapt to our
situation. It gets pretty complicated.


This can be simplified if you only go with one
data card, and/or if you skip the booster amplifier. It can be simplified
further by forgoing the outside antennas and just using the PepWave with the
data cards. In that scenario, you're almost ahead to simply use a MiFi or
similar 3g/4g portable pocket router. The only thing those don't do as well is
the WiFi- as WAN for campground WiFi. 


  1. Since I was the one who recommended the whole Pepwave setup, I feel responsible for your spaghetti mess of cables! Here are a few things that have kept me “spaghetti-free” for a year:

    I have only one data card (like you, it is the Verizon UML290). If 4G is not available, I manually kick it over to 3G using the Pantech Modem Utility ( So annoying it doesn’t automatically do this! If I know I won’t have any Verizon reception whatsoever, I turn on the “Personal Hotspot” on my AT&T iPhone and have the Pepwave connect to it as my Wi-Fi source. I don’t have to mess with swapping out any cables–ever! And, then of course, I use the “Connect to Any Open
    Mode AP” under “WiFi WAN Settings” to automatically scan for open Wi-Fi networks, and “Fail Over Settings” enabled to automatically switch over to my data card if Wi-Fi fails. This method as worked flawlessly for one full year–from Alaska to Florida.

    Any security concerns of connecting to an open Wi-Fi network are (mostly) mitigated by using the incredible Mac and iOS VPN called Cloak.

    Oh, and I am running firmware 1.0.19 (build:1085) on the Pepwave. I contacted tech support and had them open up the Bonjour (Zeroconf) protocol so that I could seamlessly transfer files across my various Apple devices. I can’t seem to get it to transfer at true 802.11n speeds, but it does at least find my devices and do the file transfer. Hope that helps!

    Oh, one more thing. If I don’t have great voice service, I just hop on FaceTime or Skype and use the data connection for my “phone” call. That eliminates the need for any cell phone boosters.

    Just keepin’ it simple! 🙂

  2. Have you guys looked into Millenicom at all?

    Thinking about going with their data plan (the one labeled “Hotspot”) as it runs off of Verizon’s network but it’s 20GB / month for $70. They have an “unlimited” plan too but it runs off of Sprint. I used to have one of their Aircards which worked just about nowhere back in 2008.

  3. Cyrus Cyrus

    Great write up.. got me thinking about adding AT&T as a backup to my Millenicom Verizon plan (I feel so vulnerable in the boonies with a nonexistent Verizon signal).. which led me to below solution.

    If anyone wants to avoid part of the spaghetti mess.. for a simplified setup (on the amplifier/booster front) you can get the new Wilson Sleek which covers 2G/3G/4G on AT&T, TMobile AND Verizon.. all in one device. You used to have to get separate ones for AT&T or Verizon. Believe it just came out in Feb ’13. While not as robust as your setup it will save you on frustration and a couple hundred bucks.

  4. Dridma Dridma

    Hi there,

    Thanks for the writeup. I’ve just bought a pair of the same antennas.

    – Could you provide any info on your experience attaching them up on the roof?
    – Did you use any grounding/surge protection for the antennas? Often this is done via a surge protector adapter between the antenna and the router.


Comments are closed.