Taku Harbor – Riveted

Taku Harbor

Laura Domela — Wed, 29 Jun 2016 23:30:16 +0000

We left Ford’s Terror this morning (exiting just before high slack against about 2 knots of current…no big deal) and decided to fish a bit in Holkham Bay before meeting up with Sam and his family in Taku Harbor tonight. We didn’t catch anything, but we did see puffins!

They weren’t close enough to get great shots of ’em, but you get the idea. Puffins!!

In the morning we took the drone up to get some good overall shots of Taku Harbor (Airship and Safe Harbour on the dock).

The old cannery ruins:

Tomorrow, we’ll head back to Juneau for a little internet and work! We have some new friends joining us next week and we’ll be visiting these same places (Taku, Tracy Arm, Ford’s Terror)….so prepare for a little repeating! We’ll go down and see Dawes Glacier with them, which we haven’t done yet. Something new!

How About Taku Harbor?

Laura Domela — Fri, 24 Jun 2016 23:30:28 +0000

Our plan today was to leave Juneau and head for Tracy Arm. We thought we’d fish a bit through slack tide near the entrance to Endicott Arm, then stay in Tracy Arm Cove for the night. But as we got a little ways outside of Gastineau Channel, the wind (and waves) picked up quite a bit, and eventually we decided we didn’t really want another three hours of that. The wind was up to 20-25 kts and the waves had picked up from 2 to about 4-5 feet. Taku was sounding pretty good!

We tied up to the dock at Taku and got the dinghy down quickly, because on our way in we spotted a large bear and her two cubs over on the beach, so we thought we’d put out crab traps and go get a closer look. We opted for the closer look first, then crab traps, because we could see that the three of them were headed up toward the woods. By the time we got there, we could only see mama bear, but I was able to get some really fun shots of her as she smelled and noticed us. As I watched her more closely, she’d go along for a bit, then kind of sit down in the grass and look up and wait…then get up and THEN I’d see a cub or two run after her, so I think she was nursing. (The cubs were quite small.) So cool.

Crab traps are out! We’ll check ‘em in the morning, and provided it’s calmed down out there by morning, we’ll continue down to Ford’s Terror!

Another Night in Taku Harbor

Laura Domela — Thu, 20 Aug 2015 16:43:47 +0000

Airship Goes to Alaska

We left Juneau yesterday at around noon, after saying goodbye to Steve at Nordic Tug Charters (with a loaf of homemade beer bread) and also to Dean at the boat yard (with another loaf of homemade beer bread). They both were so helpful and Steve’s hospitality was just….beyond any expectation, ever. It’s nice to be getting back on our way, but bittersweet saying goodbye to new friends.

The weather on Tuesday sucked, but by yesterday it had lightened up quite a bit and the conditions in Stephens Passage were fine — SE wind 15 kt seas 3 ft — and it was just about that.

We saw a handful (well, maybe two handfuls) of humpbacks on our way over to Taku Harbor.

We figured we’d go to Taku last night because it was close (20 miles from Juneau) and also because we’ve almost run out of crab.

When we pulled in there were no other boats at the dock, as we were getting ready to put out the crab pots a sailboat came in. It’s quiet, and we have no internet…but…crab!

After about an hour, there were probably 6 more boats in Taku.

We hiked out to swing on the Big Swing and stretch our legs a bit.

Looking out into Stephens Passage:

Walking along the shoreline:

This morning we checked the crab traps and we had two good keepers. Here's one of 'em (also known as "dinner"):

Now we're headed down to Port Snettisham to meet some folks who manage a hatchery there (and who generously offered to give us a tour and let us stay at their float). Fun!!

Oh, and if you want the beer bread recipe, here it is below. My mom used to make a really good beer bread, and this recipe I found seems really close to the one she used…but I think hers had honey in it so I’m going to try that next time…maybe substituting honey for sugar…I plan to further experiment.

Beer Bread

3 cups flour (sifted…that part is important)
¼ cup sugar
3 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 12oz beer
¼ cup melted butter (unsalted)

Heat oven to 375.

Mix the dry ingredients, add the beer (and honey?), stir it all together. Pour into greased loaf pan, then pour melted butter over the top for a crusty crust.

Bake at 375 for one hour. Let cool for 15 minutes before slicing. (Whatever, not that important for that first slice.)

Makes one loaf of hearty beer bread with a crunchy crust. Good by itself, or toasted with an over easy egg and some chipotle tabasco on top (like we did this morning for breakfast).

Original recipe source: http://www.food.com/recipe/beer-bread-73440

Icebergs, Glaciers, and Bears

Laura Domela — Sat, 18 Jul 2015 16:35:00 +0000

Airship Goes to Alaska

We left our little cove inside Tracy Arm and cruised the 25 miles or so to South Sawyer glacier. There was far less ice to dodge than when we were here before. Far less, and far less other boat traffic as well.

Passing a seal on our way to the glacier:

We were able to get very close (but not too close) to South Sawyer. We turned off the engine and just hung out for a while, watching (and listening to) bits of glacier calve off into the water:

Here's one as we were approaching the glacier that has another boat in it, for scale:

Here are too many photos of South Sawyer glacier (and another seal we passed on the way out):

(Note on the chart plotter how close we are to the mapped glacier.)

We decided to head in to see North Sawyer glacier, since the path was so clear. (We didn’t go in there last time at all because there was SO much ice.) There was pretty much NO ice in front of North Sawyer, and we were the only ones in there (besides two kayaks), so it was all ours.

The rock in here felt really different than in South Sawyer. Dark browns and rusts and yellows and oranges (see kayak on the right for scale).

The ice was dark and packed tight, and we only saw a few little bits fall into the water.

And this one, with a seagull circled in yellow, for scale:

Waterfall near North Sawyer:

More glaciers as we headed back out Tracy Arm:

Cool growth pattern of the green on rock:

More floating ice:

We had an amazing day exploring Tracy Arm. We heard the captain of the Disney Wonder cruise ship talking to another boat on the radio, and he said that this was the closest he’s ever gotten to the glaciers. Great day to be exploring in here!

As we got close to the anchorage where we stayed last night and would stay again tonight, we spotted a brown bear on the shore with two cubs…but the two cubs were really dark…like black bears. The sows and cubs we've seen before have all been the same color. Anyone know what the deal is with this bunch?

Also, bald eagles on an iceberg (again):

Back at unnamed cove, we anchored almost where we’d anchored the night before, and no sooner were finished anchoring when we noticed a brown bear on shore. We watched it for a bit, and then watched a guy in a dinghy setting crab traps who looked like he didn’t see the bear at all (and due to the compression of this long lens shot, looks VERY close to the grizzly, doesn’t he?)

The bear stood up and looked left (away from the dinghy) as it noticed another bear.

They saw each other, and the new bear ran toward the bear that was already there.

They approached each other slowly, and then began a casual chase up the shore.

They stopped and faced off, and then stood and wrestled with each other, while making growly bear sounds that carried well across the water so we could HEAR them growling/roaring/playing/fighting. They did this several times…chasing, facing off, wrestling, walk away…chasing, facing off, wrestling, walk away. We could see and hear ALL of it. It was super cool. We all thought (and said out loud, several times) “I can’t believe we even get to see this!”

Oh, then rainbow over icebergs:

And misty clouds in the trees:

Dinner was a hearty soup with pulled pork and veggies, with a side of garlic bread.

Our original plan was to next go into Endicott Arm and to Ford’s Terror (entering at high slack around 3pm), but since it was only 20nm away, we had some time and decided to go north for a bit in Stephens Passage to see if we could get some internet for a few work things.

Very large iceberg just outside of our anchorage as we left:

We went for quite a ways though with no hint of any connection, so we opted to go up to Taku Harbor for the night. We knew we’d gotten connected just outside the harbor, so Plan B it was. We floated around in Stephens Passage with internet for a bit and did some work, and then headed into Taku Harbor toward the free public dock. It’s busy in here at this time of year and the dock was almost full, but we got a spot and then took the 7 year old onto shore to burn some energy on the trails and the giant rope swing.

Crab traps went out and we grilled some halibut for dinner, with a side of spinach ravioli and asparagus.

In the morning the weather was super crappy and the forecast was not looking great for our cruise back down to Ford's Terror, so we opted for another night in Taku Harbor. We caught a bunch of crab, hiked around the old cannery, and took advantage of the docks and the swing for some exercise. Bummer that we didn't get back to Ford's Terror, but we can't really complain. At all.

Taku Harbor to Tracy Arm Cove

Laura Domela — Tue, 23 Jun 2015 03:32:00 +0000

Airship Goes to Alaska

We left Taku Harbor this morning and decided to fish a bit on our way to Tracy Arm. We caught two rockfish, and then a really weird other thing we're still trying to figure out what it was. Internetters, if you know…tell us!

Rockfish:

Weird sluggy thing that went after our ultraviolet hootchie meant for KING SALMON, hint hint weird sluggy thing:

Humpbacks on the way into Tracy Arm:

Just before we turned into Tracy Arm we met up with Lanette and Ron on Cabernet as they were making their way from Tracy Arm to Taku Harbor. We both slowed up and caught up via VHF, and yell/talking from bow to bow, then continued on. One of these days we'll meet up with them when we actually have time to chat over a glass of wine or something!

Another humpback:

Outside of the Tracy Arm bar there were several icebergs that had made their way outside, and inside the bar, quite a few more.

Icebergs and eagles:

Oh right, we also saw two brown (grizzly) bears on the beach just before getting to our anchorage:

New spot for the night, in the unnamed cove in Tracy Arm:

We ate the crab we caught in the morning for dinner and then after dinner we were thinking we wanted to have a bit of bourbon over ice, and OMG HEY LOOK OVER THERE. IT'S OUR OWN PRIVATE ICEBERG!

We took the dinghy over to gather some glacier ice. So much fun! Here's Deke, gettin' at it with a screwdriver:

Iceberg, with Airship in the background:

Back at Airship — glacier/bourbon ice, with iceberg of origin floating in the background:

Four Roses Single Barrel, over glacier ice:

Perfect end to a perfect day!

Here's today's track from Taku Harbor to Tracy Arm (31 nautical miles):

Juneau to Taku Harbor

Laura Domela — Mon, 22 Jun 2015 02:59:00 +0000

Airship Goes to Alaska

Tiffani and Deke showed up at Airship (Harris Harbor, Juneau, AK) at 10pm on June 20 (Woohoo! They're finally here!!). On Sunday the 21st we provisioned first thing. The Juneau IGA is a KILLER grocery store. It looks like any other slightly downtrodden rough-weather-place grocery store, but then you walk in and it’s all shiny and new (it’s like a geode!) and the selection they have of EVERYTHING is really good. (They recently remodeled!) We hit the IGA and Kenny’s Liquor Store next door and then Deke and Kevin dropped Tiffani and me off back at Airship (to find room for all the new provisions) while they went and gathered a few more fishing things.

Next, we all headed out to Mendenhall Glacier. First thing we saw? Of course, a porcupine in a tree, eating leaves.

The park ranger was standing beneath the tree with a little jar of porcupine quills and we got to hold and touch it and learn some stuff about porcupines. Neat!

Glacier, waterfall:

After the glacier we stopped at a place called the Sand Bar & Grill for some halibut fish & chips. This place came highly recommended by locals, and let us tell ya…the locals did not disappoint. The halibut was incredible and the beer batter was perfect, and the house-made tartar sauce…so good!

We left Juneau around 3pm and headed for Taku Harbor. Big Red (the American Tug 41 from our flotilla) was there on the dock, but no one else (yet). We caught up a little bit with them and then Kevin and Deke put out a couple crab traps and we made some crab enchiladas for dinner.

On the dock at Taku:

In the morning, Kevin and Deke checked the traps and came back with 4 large male Dungeness keepers!

Tiffani and I, in slippers, checking out tonight's dinner:

Tiffani "cleaned" the crabs like a boss:

After murdering cleaning the crab, we went on a hike out to the giant rope swing:

Then, we packed it up and headed to the unnamed anchorage at Tracy Arm.

Today's track (20 miles) from Juneau to Taku Harbor:

Taku Harbor to Juneau, AK

Laura Domela — Fri, 19 Jun 2015 00:40:27 +0000

Airship Goes to Alaska

This morning we got up on the early side (I know, big shocker) and Kevin went out the check the crab traps. He took the walkie talkie with him, and pretty soon I get a call saying the first trap was stuffed full with crabs and that he doesn't even know how many are in there.

This is how many legal males we had: 15!! We limited out again, so we put some back. But holy moly! We have a lot of crab cleaning and cooking and picking to do! (These are all WAY bigger than the six-and-a-half-inches-not-counting-horns measurement across the back. WAY bigger.)

We got out of Taku Harbor at 7am (before the 3 foot minus tide, so we could get our boat out from the inside dock space!) and decided to troll for salmon. Our cruise to Juneau was only 19 miles, so we had time. It was quiet and drizzling a little as we motored on, watching a couple of eagles fishing alongside us (good sign!):

We'd barely exited the harbor when there was a big splash next to the boat. We looked around and waited, and pretty soon there were four Pacific white-sided dolphins playing around our boat. They were coming from over there by the shore and rocks where they'd probably been fishing too:

They were in front, then going under, popping up along side, back in front….I love these guys! It's so much fun, because they aren't just going about their business while you watch from a distance. They're over there eating, doing their dolphin thing, and they see your boat, and they're all "Hey!! Let's play!!" and THEY come to YOU. It's awesome, and it was my favorite part of sailing to Catalina on my grandpa's sailboat when I was a kid….sitting out on the bow sprit with the dolphins surfing beneath me.

It was a magical morning. We're trolling along for salmon after catching a ton of Dungeness crab, heading for Juneau, Alaska, in our boat that we brought here ourselves, and there are dolphins playing all around us. Kevin said "Is this even REAL?"

It's real, and it's fantastic.

The shoreline at the base of Taku Mountain, at Grave Point, is so rocky:

We caught no fish. We might have had one strike, but no matter. We continued on to Juneau, fished a bit more after entering Gastineau Channel (there were fish and bait fish showing on the sonar, and several other boats fishing) but we eventually pulled the line in and headed for the harbor.

Waterfall below cloud cover in Gastineau Channel:

Cruise ships in Juneau Harbor:

Misty mountain cover:

We're in Harris Harbor now, the harbor closest to town. We'll be doing laundry, re-provisioning, cleaning up the boat, doing a whole lotta work, getting a couple things at the marine store, and then meeting up with our friends Tiffani and Deke when they arrive on Saturday night. They'll be cruising around with us for the next two weeks, so posts might be less frequent, but we'll try to keep updating with the highlights!

Our plans at this point include Tracy Arm, Sawyer Glacier, Ford's Terror (don't worry mom, it's not as bad as it sounds), Pack Creek Bear Observatory, Pybus Bay (again), Kake, Saginaw Bay, Red Bluff Bay, Baranoff Hot Springs, and then…? We'll be in Sitka around July 3rd, so we'll see how much we can fit in before then (a lot, I bet!)

Here's today's track (26 miles in all, counting all our coastal trolling):

Pybus Bay to Taku Harbor

Laura Domela — Wed, 17 Jun 2015 23:27:00 +0000

Today was another 50+ mile day, so we left Pybus Bay at 6am (after pulling in one more Dungeness crab). Kevin pulling up crab traps at 5:30am:

I'm glad it was clear when we arrived, or we'd have missed those beautiful mountains back there, covered by the misty gray this morning.

One of the rocky islets in the entrance to Pybus Bay:

We cruised up Stephens Passage (forecast for seas 3 feet but this morning changed to less than 2 feet) and it looked like this pretty much the whole way:

We saw humpbacks ALL ALONG OUR CRUISE. All. Along. We probably saw 40 or 50 humpbacks. Here are a few (too many) photos:

Humpback at 2 o'clock!

Humpback in the foreground, with two more behind him:

I'll chill out on the humpback photos, but it was super cool.

Oh yeah, we also saw a seal tossing a salmon about before he ate ‘im. It was raining and pretty gray, but I managed to get a few long lens shots:

We were the third boat to show up at Taku Harbor (two other Nordic Tugs were already there, a 37 and an older 32) and we opted for the north dock rather than anchoring out near all the crab pots. The north dock has land access and some hiking trails that we wanted to take advantage of.

Facing into the harbor:

Facing back toward shore:

(There’s also a floating dock in the south of the harbor with no land access, but I think it’s got a courtesy dinghy on it if you wanted to go to shore and didn’t have your own. Either that, or someone left without their dinghy.)

By 6pm there were five more boats in here, but it still didn't feel crowded, and everyone is very friendly. Kevin went out and dropped our crab traps out in the sea of commercial crab traps with little expectation.

We went on a nice hike among the old cannery buildings and deserted cabins:

Totally good horror movie set:

There’s a forest service cabin and a nice waterfront fire pit if you head to the right after you get to shore, and a ways past that, the trail opens into a clearing in the woods with a giant rope swing. Fun!!

Picnic table and fire pit in front of the cabin:

Rope swing!

New trees growing on old trees:

Another fish boat in the harbor putting out a TON of traps. Now there’s really no hope for more crab for us. We went out on a dinghy excursion around the shore looking for bears (there are both brown bears and black bears here, but we haven’t seen any yet.)

We decided to check our traps before coming in from our dinghy ride because it’d been two hours already and why not? We had 6 large male Dungeness and one female (she went back in). Six large keepers! We left the traps down (since, if we’re cooking and freezing a bunch of crab, why not go big?)

Think there are enough crab pots out here?? (All of those on the back of that boat went down here after I took this photo.)

Our haul after 2 hours in Taku Harbor:

One of the boats put down a couple crab pots right by the dock in maybe 5 feet of water. After a short time, most of the boaters were gathered over there watching Dungeness after Dungeness make its way into the pot. Crazy! (And probably in a few weeks there will be no crab at all in this bay by the looks of how many crab pots there are here now at the very start of the commercial season.) We lucked out!

We were still really psyched about how good last nights crab enchiladas were, so I made them again! This time I added a little bit of light cream cheese along with some light sour cream and milk, and they were EVEN BETTER.

Today’s track (55.5 nautical miles, 7 hours 14 minutes):

Tomorrow: Juneau!